EVALUATING
YOUR ABILITY TO TRADE VEHICLES
Before you go into ANY dealership,
it's always a good idea to know where you stand in your trade-in vehicle.
There's no more awkward moment for the consumer or the dealer than when
the moment of truth comes...when you find out what your vehicle is worth versus
the amount of money you owe on it.
A common misconception is that the
payoff on your vehicle has some relevance to the vehicles value.
This is simply not true. These
two numbers have absolutely nothing to do with each other, so do not be
confused.
Today, most people with a balance
owed on their car are "upside down".
You've probably heard that term before.
Being "upside down" means simply that the balance owed on your
car is greater than its value. Many
dealers also refer to this as "negative equity".
You will see the terms upside down and negative
equity throughout this report. A
payoff is the amount of money you owe
on your vehicle.
As background, I recently I looked
at the payoffs of 100 trade-ins versus what the vehicles were actually worth.
This was totally at random, 100 trade appraisals in a row.
91 people out of 100 had a payoff; meaning only 9 people had clear titles
with no liens. Of those who owed
money on their trade-in, they had on average negative equity of over $6000. So if you are upside down, you are not alone.
Before you go shopping for a
vehicle, you should have a good idea where you stand in your trade-in, to avoid
the shock of finding out AND to make sure the dealer is treating you fairly.
Below, I will walk you through exactly how to get a good idea on whether
you are upside down, or if you have equity.
HERE IS HOW YOU FIND OUT WHERE
YOU STAND:
We need two numbers to evaluate
where you stand. The first number
is the exact payoff. Whether you
purchased the vehicle on a retail contract, a lease, or a balloon note, there is
always a payoff that can be obtained by talking to your lender.
All payoffs can be gotten immediately during normal business hours by
phone, and many times they can be gotten on line. I
will give some common payoff numbers at the end of this.
Simply call your lender and tell them you need the payoff on your
vehicle. Have your account number
ready to give them, although some can do it by social security number.
(cont...)
The lender will give you either a
ten day payoff OR your current payoff today, and tell you how much to add per
day until the vehicle is paid off. Keep
this number, we'll need it later.
STEP TWO is to get an approximate
value on your trade-in to compare to the payoff. I have extensively studied all the websites that give used
vehicle evaluations. I can tell you
without doubt that Kelly Blue Book by
far most accurately reflects real world trade values. If anything, they may be slightly conservative, but for the
purposes of analyzing your equity position, it's better to be conservative that
to over evaluate where you stand.
So go to www.kbb.com and on their
homepage, you will see USED CAR VALUES by make and model.
Click that link and then there are three boxes to fill out.
The first one is Year. You
simply put the year of your vehicle. Next,
they want Make (Honda, Toyota, Ford, etc.).
And last they want model (such as Accord, Camry, Focus, etc.).
Then hit GO.
Now you have a choice of picking
one of these three:
Trade-In
Value
Private
Party Value, or
Suggested
Retail price.
BE SURE TO SELECT TRADE-IN
VALUE.
The other two will not give you accurate values for the purposes of
trading your vehicle.
Next, you'll input your zip code,
the mileage of your vehicle and you will need to check any options your vehicle
has. Be sure to input accurate
information. The last step is one
of the most important. You have to
classify your car into one of these categories:
poor, fair, good, or excellent. By
each classification, it will tell you what to look for. If anything, be conservative here. Again, it is better to have a low estimated value and have a
pleasant surprise once you visit a dealer.
Hit GO and shortly you will have your approximate trade value.
Now you have your payoff AND the
approximate value of your trade. You
are well equipped to go car shopping now and deal from strength.
SO WHAT IF THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN THE TWO NUMBERS IS HUGE?
There are a lot of factors that determine whether you can trade or not.
Let's look at a few scenarios:
1). you are less than $3000 upside
down. You
are in pretty good shape to trade and should not have any problems.
Most lenders understand and will let you roll that amount into a new
loan. Plus, on most vehicles today,
there is enough in rebates to cover that amount, so you end up breaking even.
2). you are $3000 to $6000 upside
down. It
becomes a little more difficult to trade, and to get a lender to allow you to
roll that much negative equity from one loan to another, you will need to have a
better than average credit rating. You
might also want to choose a car with a larger rebate.
(cont...)
3).
you are over $6000 upside down. These deals are even more
difficult and you may need some cash down payment to go with your car.
You will also need to have good credit.
Understand too that rolling this much negative equity can have a huge
effect the next time you go to trade.
OTHERS THINGS TO CONSIDER:
I met a customer five or so years
ago that kept rolling negative equity from one car to the next, to the next and
so on. She rapidly traded about
four times in three years. To make
matters worse, she drove a lot of miles. When
she got to me, she owed $72,000 on a vehicle worth $40,000.
To this day, this one takes the prize for the most upside down person I
have ever seen. As in most of these
cases, she met the day of reckoning. She
put $20,000 down and leased a new Explorer for two years at $1200 per month.
Although this is an extreme case, after the two years were up, she was
level with the world and able to start over.
We put her in a lease plan to get a new car every two years and she is
about to come up on her third new vehicle since that time.
She has not been upside down since.
So in summary, if you are upside
down, you are in good company. Understand
that NO DEALER can make your negative equity go away.
They can play numbers games to cover it up, but rest assured you are
still paying for it. Knowing how
much negative equity you have is a valuable tool when going to buy a new
vehicle. And lastly, you cannot
roll negative equity from car to car to car without it catching up to you.
At some point, it gets overwhelming and you get stuck, so plan ahead.
Jerry Reynolds
The CarGuy
(cont...)
Below is a list of some of the
larger lending institutions payoff lines. If
your lender is not listed, search www.google.com or call directory assistance.
Dallas
Area Lenders to call to get your payoff, in alphabetical order:
American
Airlines Credit Union
800 533-0035
American
Honda Finance
800 448-9307
Americredit
800 937-3635
Arcadia
Financial
800 486-1750
Bank
of America
800 866-7220
Bank
of Texas
800 324-4100
Bank
of the West
800 827-7500
Bank
One
800 274-2594
Barnett
Bank
800 562-5725
BMW
Financial Services
800 578-5000
Chase
Bank
800 223-5050
Chemical
Bank
800 762-6139
Chrysler
Financial Services
800 556-8172
Comerica
Bank
800 824-7598
Community
Credit Union
800 556-8172
Compass
Bank
800 239-2265
Dallas
City Employees Credit Union
214 515-0100
Dallas
Teachers Credit union
800 314-3828
Debis
Financial
800 283-3496
Fairlane
Credit
800 601-9272
First
Bank of America
501 663-2300
First
Security Bank
800 968-7700
Ford
Motor Credit
800 727-7000
GE
Capital
800 488-5208
GMAC
800 200-4622
Gulfstates
Acceptance
800 828-9402
Guaranty
Federal Bank
800 288-8822
Household
Finance
800 418-1888
Hyundai
Motors Financial
800 523-4030
Infiniti
Financial Services
800 627-4437
Mazda
American Credit
800 945-8000
Mercedes
Benz Credit
800 622-2988
Mitsubishi
Motors Finance
800 426-7038
MS
Financial
800 748-8626
Nations
Bank
800 936-6362
Nissan
Motor Acceptance
800 456-6622
North
Dallas Bank
972 387-1300
Northwest
Bank
800 224-7334
Novus
Financial
800 767-7282
Olympia
Financial
800 486-1750
Primus
800 945-8000
Southtrust
Bank
800 276-1381
Subaru
American Credit
800 745-5414
Team
Bank
800 545-2045
Texas
Commerce Bank
800 235-8522
Toyota
Motor Credit
800 443-0173
Union
Acceptance
800 284-2324